Insects and other foods the trout may be eating:
1.   Blue-winged Olives - mostly Little BWO - Isolated hatches
2.   Giant Black Stoneflies - starting any day, nymphs active
3.   Hendricksons - may have ended
4.   Cinnamon Caddis - Mostly Abrams Creek
5    Light Cahills - hatching
6.   Midges - hatching in isolated locations
7.   Little Short-horned Sedges - should hatch randomly for 2-3 months
8.   American March Browns - hatching but randomly in isolated locations
9.   Streamers - matching sculpin, baitfish and small crawfish
10. Little Yellow Stoneflies - hatching
11. Eastern Green Drakes - should be starting in Abrams Creek
12. Green Sedges - hatching

Light Cahill - Nymphs
These are clinger nymphs that spend most of their life clinging to the underside of
rocks or down in between the cracks and crevices of the rocks on the bottom.  Most
of the time they are not readily available for the trout to eat. They are found on the
bottom of the runs and riffles of the streams. The nymphs rely on the fast, highly
oxygenated water for the oxygen they need to survive. That is why the bodies of the
clinger nymphs are designed to cling to rocks. They must be able to hang onto the
rocks in the current.

When it is near the time for them to hatch, they migrate to the slower moving,
calmer water nearby their fast water habitat. As with most of the other clinger
nymphs, I recommend fishing imitations of the nymph only when the hatch is either
about to begin or underway. By underway, I mean on the days the hatch is
occurring, not during the time the duns are emerging.

When you anticipate a hatch is about to begin, or if you have determined it has
already started, you may want to try imitating the nymphs migrating from their
normal fast water habitat to slower, more moderately flowing water close by. If
the hatch has begun, you would want to do this in the mornings and early
afternoon up until the time the nymphs begin to emerge. Fish your imitation
heavily weighted, right on the bottom at the edges or seams of the fast moving
riffles and runs. Your basic approach should be focused on bringing the nymph
out of the fast water into the areas where the water is moving slower. This could be
pockets along the outside edge of a run. The current seams created by pockets or
slicks behind bounders is another place you would want to concentrate on.

I usually place split shot about six to eight inches above the nymph. You want to
keep adding weight until you can get the nymph down quickly and keep in on the

Short up-stream or up and across presentation work best for this. You can also use
the typical "high-stick" method of nymphing but I feel like short cast works better.
Strike indicators can be used but I feel like they hurt the presentation by keeping
the fly off of the bottom. Use a relatively short leader of about seven and a half feet.
If you make short cast, not over twenty feet long, and keep a relatively tight line you
can either feel the takes or see the end of your fly line stop or move unnaturally in
the drift.

This is our "Perfect Fly" Light Cahill Nymph. The thorax is flatter than it appears in
the image.

Copyright 2009 James Marsh