08/26/09

Insects and other foods the trout may be eating:
1.   Blue-winged Olives - mostly Little BWO - Isolated hatches
2.   Mahogany Duns
3.   Midges - hatching in isolated locations
4.   Little Yellow Stoneflies - hatching (Little Summer Stones)
5.   Slate Drakes - hatching
6.   Cream Cahills - hatching in Isolated locations
7.   Beetles
8.   Grasshoppers
9.   Ants
10. Inch Worms
11. Crane Flies
12. Helligramite
13. Streamers - matching sculpin, baitfish and small crawfish

Czech Nymph Method of Fishing - Part 4

Start fishing the Czech Nymph rig by pulling out some fly line. If the overall length of
the leader is about seven feet long, the you would want to pull out about three to six
feet of fly line from the tip of the rod.  Stand parallel with the current. In the small
stream of the Smokies this means you will be facing one of the banks depending on
the stretch of water you are going to fish. Make a cast upstream at about a
forty-five degree angle across the current. When the flies hit the water, you rod
should be level. Stretch you arm out as far as you can when you make the cast.
This in effect lengthens the distance the flies are from your position. Keep your arm
extended straight out the same as the rod the entire drift.

You want to keep the position of the rod tip ahead of or slightly downstream of the
strike indicator at all times. As the flies drift downstream you just swing the rod
slightly ahead of the position of the strike indicator. When the drift is about forty-five
degrees across the current downstream, make another cast to a slightly different
position to cover a different line of drift. You will want to make from four to ten cast
before you move or take a step to make sure you cover all the possible line of drifts
and places a trout may be. Make sure you stay in contact with the strike indicator.
Don't let it pass downstream farther than the tip of your rod and don't allow much
slack in the fly line between you rod tip and the strike indicator. You want to be able
to react when the indicator stops or moves differently. When you have fished all the
water you can reach from that position, take a step or two upstream and repeat the
entire process.

It seems most of the strikes occur from the point the indicator is just past your
position downstream to the point you need to make another cast. When the flies are
drifting downstream from the point they hit the water, they will get closer and closer
to you until they start to drift below your position. Of course they will then get farther
from you as they drift on downstream. During this time you want to raise you rod
gradually to keep from creating slack in the line when they are closest to you or
directly perpendicular to your position.  If you keep the slack out of the line you will
feel the trout take the fly most of the time. You don't want to lift the indicator out of
the water. Just keep in contact with it.

When you have done this a few times, most of the time you will be able to tell the
difference between a fish and the bottom. The indicator usually reacts much slower
to a fly hanging than it does to a fish taking a nymph.

Tomorrow I will go over some of the nymphs and larva imitations I use in the
Smokies when fishing this way. They are not normal Czech style nymphs. They are
much better.

Copyright 2009 James Marsh